Monday, April 13, 2009

Sunburned in the Shade

Of course I'm the only one of our crew to get sunburned in the shade of Zanzibar. If you could see the front of my legs, you'd be amazed. We lounged under the shade of a lovely thatched hut after snorkeling yesterday, and when I got up, I realized I was completely fried. I had sunscreen on, but even in the shade I somehow was a lobster. I've heard about those reflective sun rays, now I can say I've experienced them.

Friday was rough traveling for me because I was still nauseated and feeling sick. We negotiated a good rate with a cab driver upon arriving in Zanzibar and climbed in his shuttle van for the hour long trek up to Kendwa Beach. Along the way, the sights were much the same as in Arusha, though in a more tropical setting.

There were all kinds of people walking alongside the road...Women carrying bags of good or buckets of water on their heads. And little children herding the livestock. The homes were also small hut-like structures, made of stone and concrete. In Arusha most are made of mud or dung. These also had thatched roofs.

During the trek, our driver, Omar, gave us some history of Zanzibar. He told us how the town of Bububu got its name from the sound of the steam trains that used to pass through. He also explained how the polisi (police) is so corrupt there. He would have to give an officer $1 on his way back through town after dropping us off.

Unknowingly, we planned our trip during the very popular Full Moon Party weekend in Kendwa. We got to the resort area and found most places were booked. Omar was very kind and walked with us to 3-4 places. We promised him we'd call him to take us back to the airport today.

The first night, we stayed in these drab, dirty, old, rundown huts at White Sands Beach resort. I was pretty sketched out - It's amazing how a bathroom back at the daycare with lizards (not to mention rat poop) running around in it sounded so much nicer that night. The second day we were able to switch to nicer, newer air conditioned rooms and I was much more comfortable.

By Saturday morning, I could tell the medicine I'd gotten in Arusha was working, and I finally felt like eating. Our resort included breakfast, so we had omelettes and fresh fruit down on the beach. The rest of the day was rainy, but we camped out under a hut. I took the hammock and don't think I moved for hours.

Saturday night it cleared up and we walked over to the Kendwa Rocks resort for the Full Moon party. There was a dinner buffet and entertainment in the form of these dancing acrobatic men who also did the limbo under a fiery stick. After that is when the action started...lots of dancing to American club music.

Later in the evening we ended up talking to some Maasai men who work on the beach selling art. Jacob, in particular was very animated and friendly. He told us lots of interesting things about his culture. For instance, he's 24, and won't date or anything until he's 26 when he chooses a wife. At that time he'll get married, and likely return to his tribe in mainland TZ. I had a great time talking with him. He told me that if he and I were married and had a child, then if he died and I had other children, I would have to love his child more than the others. I guess it's the culture....and maybe the beers he was drinking.

The party was still going strong when we left at 3am. It was great to be there for it, though when looking at the moon on Saturday, I'm pretty sure it wasn't full.

First thing Sunday we went snorkeling. It was really great there! Lots of coral and beautiful fish. We saw starfish of every color too! The only bad part were the jelly fish, which cut the trip a little short because they just got to be too much to handle. One thing I found funny - the 'guide' who was out in the water with us, was standing on the coral at different times. I'm guessing he doesn't care or doesn't know that you're not supposed to do that!

The rest of the day I spent lounging in the shade getting sunburned....and walking down the beach looking at the art and jewelry being sold. All the vendors say, "Come in, just one minute" to lure you in. We bought a few things, including painting and wood carvings.

I'm really glad we had the long weekend to relax in Zanzibar. It's got to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. I feel more energized and ready to get back to working with the kids in the morning. We have only 4 days left. As much as I'm ready to get home, I feel like it's not enough time to make any headway with the kids. I guess every little bit helps, and I am looking forward to seeing them in the morning.

Friday, April 10, 2009

The Little Things

Every day we're here is filled with thousands of little moments that I wish I could describe to everyone. There are always too many to remember them all.

I'm going to make a little list and see if I can get across even a few of them.

- Jacki struggling to carry a bucket of water to wash the shoes and clothes. But she didn't want any help. Travis told her she had big muscles.

- The kids all saying, "Sorry Teacher" when I coughed in class because the air is so dry and dusty here that my sinuses are a wreck.

- Little Keem walking outside to his little plastic potty sitting in the dirt. He sat down for a while and ate his pear while doing his 'business'.

- Gertruda asking me to sing "You Are My Sunshine" over and over and over...

- Aurelia has a gift for music and likes to lead the kids in songs. She is a beauty.

- Whenever we pull up to the orphanage, all the kids run out and greet us, using their best English to say "Good Morning"

- Phillipo trying his best to mimic Travis and help with the duct tape as we were wrapping mattresses with vinyl covers.

- Moody showing me how he can write his name over and over. Then tearing up the paper and throwing it on the floor because he is so tired and doesn't feel well, he doesn't know how else to express his frustration with being sick. The nurse gave him some medicine and soon he was eating lunch with a half smile.

- Any time we're walking along the streets children holler, "Mzungo!" to us, just so we'll wave hello to them.

- People are so proud of what they do have, they even sweep the dirt outside their homes to make it neat and tidy.

- The car wash we pass everyday has a mud floor

- Children, as young as 6-7 are tending the cows & goats. They graze them along the side of the road, where there's green grass to eat.

- Most homes (real homes, not huts) have bars on the windows and doors. They also almost always have a security guard who stays around night and day. If problems arise, they call for backup - in the form of a large truck of armed men. CPI has nothing on that!

- I'm touched every day by the friendliness of the people here. Even the street vendors who pester you are at least helpful when you need directions.

Thursday, April 9, 2009

One Week Down!

Wednesday we spent the day at the orphanage - I worked on teaching some of the kids to write and read basic words. Then we had 'baby class' - for the young ones who can barely say the ABCs. One of my favorite boys, Godlove and his brother Ombeni were in that 'class'. I showed them how to write their names. Godlove was so proud of himself for tracing my letters with his pencil. This little boy has so much potential. I hope to have him writing his name on his own by the time we leave.

With all the work at the orphanage and the 2mile walk back, I felt dirtier yesterday than I have the entire time I've been here. I definitely considered showering in Purell.

Today Travis and Chris ventured out with Teacher for home visits in the community. Because of my stomach issues, I decided to stay back and get more rest. About mid-day my new found guardian angel Greta stopped by the daycare. She has been volunteering with St. Lucia for 4 years now. After explaining to her my symptoms, she suggested I go to a clinic nearby to be seen by a doctor.

The clinic was nice - cool and clean inside. Everyone was pleasant. The initial paperwork consisted of me writing my name, age, sex and address on a blank sheet of paper. For the rest of the visit, that was my 'chart'. I had bloodwork (I checked - it was a sanitary/un-used needle) and other labs done right there in the clinic. Results came within about 20 minutes. Amazing, really, considering back home it can take 2 trips and a couple days for labs and results at the primary care physician.

My diagnosis: giardisis...a parasite. It's fairly common, even in the US, so it's nothing to be terribly alarmed about, but it can be hard to treat.

I was given meds and instructed to come back next week for a typed copy of my chart. No copy machines here. I'll need follow up back home to ensure the giardia is gone, but let's all keep our fingers crossed.

We had dinner with Greta, who is such an amazing woman. She told us lots of great stories about the orphanage and how she's helped along the way. I'm just glad she was around today to help me.

Tomorrow we leave for a weekend in Zanzibar. I'm thinking 2 days relaxing on the beach should be just what the doctor ordered!

Happy Easter everyone!

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

A Day of Rest - For Me

Today was a school holiday for the kids, so no work at the daycare center. I was still pretty sick this morning, so Chris and Travis went without me to the orphanage. I figured I needed a day in bed to recuperate, and I think I'm finally on the mend. I was able to eat - even came out for dinner tonight. Although, I only ate half of my appetizer-sized meal but the waiter said he would eat the rest.

We didn't know last week there would be a school holiday today, but that's kinda the way it goes sometimes! It worked out well for me. We're not sure yet what the plans are for tomorrow because Teacher said the school bus is broken down - which means no transportation to school for the kids.

I believe we'll spend the day at the orphanage. There are plenty of projects to be done there, as well as helping with the kids.

I'm hoping today was my last day of feeling badly...keep your fingers crossed.

Safari = AMAZING

Hey Everyone! We're back from Safari. I can't even put into words how amazing it was. The past two days (3 really...) have been pretty rough for me health-wise. I've got some sort of gastro sickness that has slowed me down a bit, but somehow I managed to hang in there and still enjoy our days at the parks. Special thanks to our awesome driver-tour guide-extraordinaire for his sharp driving and quick stopping skills for when I needed a quick exit of the vehicle to puke on the side of the road....

Sunday we spent in Lake Manyara. Lots of beautiful greenery and wildlife there. Many many baboons too. We saw hippos, elephants, giraffe, zebra, impala...it was just incredible. According to Ramon, our tour guide, Lake Manyara is 'a dying lake' due to silt washing down from the surrounding landscape. It was easy to tell how large the lake used to be, but now is diminishing. He said unless the government steps in to redirect the silt, the lake will likely dry up in 10 years. I'm certainly glad I got to see it before that happens.

I didn't really know how sick I was until that night, at Bougainvillea Lodge. I tried to eat the lovely dinner they made for us, but my stomach wasn't cooperating. Fortunately, I'm traveling with two great caretakers - Chris is a Nurse and has been making sure I'm taking my Cipro.

I almost didn't go on the safari the 2nd day because I felt so terrible in the morning. We talked to Ramon and he assured me there were places to stop along the way if I felt badly again. So I hopped in the truck and off we went.

I can't even begin to describe the day at Ngorogoro Crater. It must be one of the most beautiful places on earth. This time of year it's lush and green on the bottom of the crater. We had the most amazing day - and saw every animal possible...even the elusive cheetah!

The most incredible part was when we came upon a pride of lions. There were several lioness' and their cubs. We quickly realized there were also a few lioness' across the road in the tall grass stalking a heard of buffalo that were migrating across the crater floor. We watched as the mother lions directed their cubs to go hide. Then the stalking lions zeroed in on the last buffalo - a young, weak one very far back from it's herd. We saw the entire kill - it was unbelievable. Even Roman, who has been doing safari tours for 17 years was amazed. He said he's only seen a lion kill a handful of times and never once in Ngorogoro Crater. Most of the time lions hunt at night or very early in the morning.

After the young buffalo was suffocated, one of the mother lions came back to get the cubs so they could eat. She called to them and they came out of hiding. I somehow managed to get the entire thing on video. As soon as we get to where we have a little faster internet connection, I'll upload it for everyone to see. And if someone can get me the number to National Geographic, that would be great! ;-)

The rest of the day was just as amazing - we saw the black rhino, which are very low in numbers due to poaching in previous years. We also saw a cheetah, of which there are only 3-4 total in all of Ngorogoro Crater. All in all, it was a nearly perfect day!

I couldn't help but think more about karma/pay it forward/do unto others - you name it. We were given two amazing days on safari and the rest of the week we will spend helping the kids of the orphanage and day care. It couldn't have been any more clear to me.

I was able to upload a few of the nearly 500 safari photos to snapfish. Please check them out here. I would love to show more, but internet is quite slow here.

Miss everyone back home lots!!!

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Yes, I'm Sunburned

Today started when we decided to walk to the orphanage from the place we're staying. It should only be about two miles. Unfortunately, we went right instead of left...hence the sunburn. (Don't worry, Mom...it's not too bad.)


You can imagine our horror when we realized (after 45+ min) we were going the wrong direction. Sigh. A nice Tanzanian man heard us trying to figure out what to do and offered us a ride. He said he was heading that direction, though I'm not entirely sure he was. I climbed in the back seat with his bundle of lettuce and was thrilled to be rescued.

There must really be something to this Karma thing, because yesterday, upon returning to the daycare at the end of the day, we were locked out. Teacher told us Travis had the key. But one of the nurses took the key from Travis (we're still figuring out this communication thing). Fortunately, it was only about 10 min before the school bus driver came by and got a key from the neighbor next door. So we've been lucky - and I hope it continues this way.

Once we got to St. Lucia today it was all play and no work... Lots of fun with the kids today. The great thing about many of them is that they want to learn so much that even play involves some type of learning. Today I was helping Maria write her numbers while singing, "You are my Sunshine" with Tausi & Gertruda and playing matchbox cars with Godlove all at the same time.

We also worked on a schedule for the week with Teacher (his name is Chance, but everyone just calls him Teacher). Next week I'll be working in the kitchen at the orphanage as well as helping little Joqueen with his speech. He doesn't say much - but you can tell he's listening very well. He is so in love with love and just wants to be held all the time.

Travis has lots of chores like feeding and watering the chickens, fixing the windows and playing ball with the boys. Chris will be working with little John Boscoe who isn't walking right now. She examined him today and thinks there is a possibility he will be able to walk with some more physical therapy.

In the mornings, we'll all be helping teach at the daycare center. I've been working on math with the "middle" group....And trying to work on words/letters/vowels, but I think they're way ahead of me on that one. I'm learning as I go with this teaching thing.

Today was the last day other volunteers, Kim, Jon, Sal & Jocelyn were here. It was so wonderful having them around the first few days of our trip. Their knowledge about the children, the logistics, the town, everything really, was invaluable. It was a teary goodbye at the orphanage this afternoon though. I realized today just how hard it is for these kids. They have no one. Only each other and the people who come to help them. They get attached to the volunteers, of course. And volunteers to them. Aurelia and Tausi were very upset. Some of the older boys don't show emotion - they just sit back and try to hold it in.

I'm glad we will be here for the next couple weeks to ease the transition from Kim & John being gone. They've been coming to St. Lucia for 3 years and have bonded a lot with the kids. I told them both I'd do my best to take care of the kids, but they are huge shoes to fill.

I feel like we've been gone a long time already, but I'm so excited we still have two full weeks here to continue our work with the kids and making some improvements where we can.

After lots of encouragement and rave reviews from the other volunteers, today we booked a 2 day safari to Lake Manyara and Ngorogoro Crater. We leave tomorrow and will be back Monday evening. I hope to have internet access at the lodge, but if not, will post again by Tuesday (I hope!) :-)

I also think I figured out how to get pictures online, so will try to do that soon as well.

Thanks for all the comments, it's fun to read them. We'll send all your love to the kids!!!

Friday, April 3, 2009

We're Here

It's taken a few days to find reliable internet access, but finally, I'm connected. The trip was long and exhausting, but we survived...the only mishap was mistaking salt for sugar in the Amsterdam airport. Salty coffee is definitely not a great way to start the day.

Since arriving in Tanzania, it's been sensory overload at the very least. The sights and sounds are just what you would imagine - the people are poor. The homes and shops are what we would call shacks back home. There are goats, dogs and cows roaming around free.

It's a beautiful countryside though. We are very lose to Mt. Meru, a very popular hiking/climbing mountain - 2nd to Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Tourism is how people make their money. In order to get a job in tourism, the Tanzanians must speak English. That's why education is so important here. Yesterday we visited a premier school in the area, St. Jude. Government schools cost money...St. Jude is free, but it only takes the top students. They teach in English only. It's very important to them to teach the children English, so they can get jobs after school.

We're staying in volunteer rooms above a daycare center run by St. Lucia Orphanage. The children who attend are all HIV positive, many have lost their parents as well. But St. Lucia only has room for so many children, so the day care is the next best thing. The children are learning the alphabet and basic math and they get at least one hot meal a day. Some will go on to government schools if they do well.

The kids are amazingly smart and sweet. I've noticed that kids in Africa aren't much different than kids back home...they want your attention at all times. They love to learn, they love to climb trees and sing songs. We're working on "Old MacDonald Has a Farm" They definitely have the "E I E I Oh!" part down!

A little girl lost her first tooth today while rough housing in the play yard. It is just as much a rite of passage here, though I don't think a toothfairy will be coming tonight. She proudly showed off her tooth and the hole in her mouth to all the "Teachers" (I'm a teacher now...who knew!?)

Over the next couple weeks, we'll be working on more preschool education with the kids at the daycare. Plus there's work to be done at the orphanage. Travis has been tasked with building some shelves or cubbies for the kids' clothing. I'm sure I'll get to help some with that.

Most of our time spent will be jumping in and helping wherever there's a need. I've washed a lot of dishes so far, and even though the soap is a little oily/slimy, it's been fun!

I'm sure this blog post is all over the place and not very organized, but that's about how my head is after 2 full days with the children. Now that we know where to come for internet, we should be able to post every day or so.

Now we're grabbing a teksi (taxi) and heading to the Shop Rite for some essentials, peanut butter, jelly & bread.